Abstract As part of protectionist policy in eighteenth-century Britain, imported silks
were banned from being sold. Although it is known that bans on imported textiles
were widely broken, there have been few systematic studies of the contraband trade
in silks. Using customs’ records, this article shows how smuggling supplied the
demand for imported consumer goods. The illegal trade in silk was diverse, bringing
in a variety of products from Asia and Europe. The evidence supports a market segmen-
tation analysis of the different products and their consumers. The trade with Asia sup-
plied “populuxe goods” in the form of handkerchiefs that appealed to a broad, middling
customer base. These were brought into the country by the East India Company’s
trading network. By contrast, continental Europe provided contraband for the high-
fashion market. These silks were distributed in more informal and personal ways—trav-
elers and diplomats being the main offenders. The official response to these black
markets differed, with silks from Europe posing particular problems for enforcement.
Finally, this article provides a reassessment of the transnational influences—specifically
the relative importance of Asia and Europe—on production and consumption of con-
sumer goods in Britain.